Cover Up!

In this Pro’s world of television, film and photography makeup sometimes I think I have seen “it” all! However, I am reminded daily that I am naive in having this type of thought process because some people live life on the edge, fulfill their deep desires, wear their hearts on a sleeve and they choose to share it with the world through the art of tattooing.

This Pro does not have a "tat," but I know many who do and I have been asked to use my artistic talent to free-hand tattoos on actors/models or cover up some pretty amazing art work when the “character” is supposed to be a more “innocent” type.

I find tattoos to be the ultimate “art” form because they tell such personal “stories.” People who have tattoos display them proudly and share their life experiences with the world both happy and tragic.

Tattoos announce the birth, marriage, initiation, union or death of many and can appear so life-like that you can feel the emotions of the person displaying these “events” without them ever muttering a word.

However, there are the occasional drunk-off-my-ass type of tats that can be forever a regret in the mind of a young man or woman and usually those are able to be covered up by clothing…sometimes!

This Pro loves watching the reality show L.A. Inked! Kat Von D and her family of incredible artists are extraordinary and create some of the most inspiring pieces of art that I think even Picasso would have found intriguing.

Don’t you wonder what stimulates a person to want to permanently ink their passion onto their skin? I do…I want to know what the stars on Kat Von D’s temple mean to her.

I want to know who, what, where, when, why and how…because I know that there is a testimony behind each mark. A fascinating, funny, fearless, tragic or manic story and to me, tattoos are like reading a book, but the author is standing in front of you eager to share their personal experience and take you with them on a journey!

I find tattoos also frightening and horrific. When an inmate jailed for a lifetime turns to inking his entire body, face included, with eerie words, numbers or symbols. Those who worship a faith that is satanic or killers who proudly display their murderous adventures are too much for this Pro to handle and I feel overwhelming sadness for these people knowing that they are someone’s children and have chosen a path full of hatred.

Most of the time I find that individuals who express themselves through the art of tattooing are creative, loving, free-spirited and maybe a tad bit “naughty!” It is requested of this Pro on most shoots to cover up said “art” especially when it is time for the individual to walk down the aisle or stand-up and support a friend who is walking down the aisle.

I also have been asked many times to help women (never a man) cover up an inked area in order to give them the advantage over a competitor in a job interview. Or on a more rare occasion, I have been begged to school a young soul on covering up the tattoo gone wrong!

Whatever your reason for needing to cover up a tattoo, here is a list of what you will need for a D.I.Y. method:

Cool-toned concealer with yellow undertone 1-2 shades lighter than skin-tone

Warm-toned concealer with orange/red undertone matching skin-tone

EXACT skin-tone match foundation

Sponge

Orange Puff

Setting Powder

Makeup Sealer Spray

Cover up Facts:

Your main objective is to “neutralize” colors in a tattoo. Remember the color wheel theory this Pro has mentioned in past posts? Which colors “cut” colors? Orange cuts Blue, Green cuts Red…etc., that is how you will neutralize the colors of your “inked” area.

However, for this type of quick disappearing act use the above-mentioned product. Don’t try to get fancy with green, purple, yellow or orange primers, concealers or neutralizers. Those usually require special training by a professional and can be more time consuming and frustrating when you feel the “pressure” to make your tattoo invisible.

WARNING: Covering a tattoo should only be done when your tattoo is completely healed! If you choose to cover a fresh tattoo you may cause an infection.

Here is the how-to (small tattoos only):

1. Clean area and use razor to remove hair if needed (this is necessary for makeup to adhere to your skin properly). Dry area thoroughly.

2. Begin with cool-toned, yellow-based concealer and stipple product onto the tattoo with sponge. Build up the coverage if needed. Let dry and adhere to skin, approximately 5 minutes.

3. Use warm-toned, orange/red-based concealer and apply on top of yellow-based concealer lightly using stipple method. Swiping product across the area will only “smudge” and wipe off the first concealer application. Build coverage. Let dry and adhere to skin, approximately 5 minutes.

4. Set with setting powder using orange puff and gently patting powder onto the concealer. Dust off excess powder.

5. Apply EXACT matching foundation using sponge and stipple method over concealer.

6. Set with powder using same method listed in Step 4.

7. Apply spritz of makeup setting spray or fixative.

Pro Tip: I recommend using theatrical, cream concealers and foundations, which are listed below because of there “staying” power, however you can use liquid product, but do not expect the same coverage or lasting results.

While researching this post, this Pro came across an interesting technique used by another makeup artist and I just had to test out this theory…

Using all of the same makeup products listed above, add a red-based lipstick to that group and use it first prior to the yellow-based concealer. Let dry and adhere to skin and then continue with the steps above in the same order. Below are photos of our experiment. I was surprised and excited by our results!

Pro tattoo cover-up product recommendations:

Yellow-based concealer: Lemon-Aid by BeneFit or Ben Nye’s Mellow Yellow Neutralizer.

Orange/Red based concealer: CoverBlend Concealer in various shades.

Cream-based Foundation: Cinema Secrets, Graftobian or Ben Nye theatrical foundations. Also, CoverFX Total Coverage Cream Foundation or Dermablend camouflage makeup are good alternatives if you are unable to purchase a theatrical product.

Setting Powder: Cinema Secrets theatrical setting powder. Comes in translucent or skin-tone hues.

Makeup Sealer: Skindanivia Makeup Setting Spray.

Specialty Products: Tattoo Camo Makeup, which includes Camo Paste that will hide all colors of tattoos. The kit contains paste/setting powder/remover. CoverBlend Corrective Leg and Body Makeup will cover most blue/green ink. Kat Von D Tattoo Concealer found at your local Sephora has you covered!

These same instructions and products can also help cover major skin "issues" and discolorations. If you suffer from Rosacea or other types of skin related or genetic problems try the tips above, they should provide and satisfy your need for coverage.

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

If you are “sleeved” or your tattoos are covering a large area of skin real estate, then it is the opinion of this Pro that you should hire a makeup artist who specializes in airbrushing. A skilled airbrush artist will be able to properly cover larger areas in a short amount of time and the silicone-based makeup used will have long lasting staying power!

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO: Get the Look! Our Country truly is a gorgeous melting pot! The all-American look comes in many skin tones and you can look as sweet and innocent as the “girl next door” with IMPO’s step-by-step guide!

Get the Look - Rocker Chick!

“Rock and Roll is one of these jobs where you sort of live in this strange world of not really ever growing up but having to grow up at the same time!” – Joan Jett, Elle Magazine 2009.

You don’t have to love the sound of guitar-thrashing music to look like someone who does! Rock n roll babes give off a sexy, rebellious scent along with an “I don’t care what people think of me” vibe!

This makeup Pro is a lover of the classy yet hard-core rock chicks like Joan Jett, Ann and Nancy Wilson or Suzi Quatro and I adore the characters actresses like Jennifer Aniston (Rock Star) and Kate Hudson (Almost Famous) have portrayed on the big screen! And who doesn’t love the sultry look of Kate Moss strutting her stuff on the catwalk?

Those women could pick up a guitar and microphone and have us rocking out instantly or make us jealous of their abilities to charm the bad boy musician we so desperately wanted in our beds!

These ladies are the muses of song lyrics and the inspirations of designers. They give off the impression of total confidence, with a hint of “I could kick your ass without even smearing my eyeliner” charm!

You move out of their way when they strut down the street and you watch in amazement as a crowded dance floor parts like the Red Sea to make room for a rock goddess who wants to shake her groove thing!

They intimidate, frighten and bully. They are self-assured, bold and poised. They smell of sex, drugs and rock n roll and we want to be them, we want to live their lifestyles, but only for a few hours!

To go with your traditional rock star wardrobe consisting of a studded jacket, leather pants, ripped t-shirt, boots and to match your seductive tousled hairstyle, you must have a certain makeup look to complete your transformation.

The smoky eye is always a good choice and works well day or night. It is almost expected that a gorgeous, dangerous, bad-ass girl would be rocking the dark shadow and black eyeliner.

If you admire a certain femme fatale and want to reproduce her style, there are cosmetic products that can give you a fresh-faced Penny Lane appearance or an “I just-rolled-out-of-bed-with-some-drummer” look! Either way, everyone will know that “you’re with the band!”

When this Pro wants to put her best rock star face forward, I reach for the following:

Dior - DiorSkin AirFlash Spray Foundation - gives the look of flawless skin with a subtle glow and leaves you with an airbrushed effect. Completely evens out the skin tone and diminishes fine lines and wrinkles. Apply by spraying onto a sponge and blend. Rocker chicks are totally ageless; this product will keep people guessing how old you really are!

Eve Pearl - Pressed Powder - is a sheer powder that eliminates shine and adds highlights while removing discolorations and redness from the skin. Apply with a powder puff using a blotting motion or with a large, fluffy brush. This powder is perfect for travel and is in a very slim compact that will tuck into the pocket of your skinny jeans or snake-skin clutch!

Kevyn Aucoin Beauty – The Precision Brow Pencil - is made of the thinnest point on the market, which allows you to draw individual lash hairs precisely to create a natural look. Gorgeous brows shape the eyes and give them a lift making the face appear younger and fresher. All rocker chicks know how to speak with their eyes and having amazing eyebrows send many messages without uttering a word!

Kat Von D – True Romance Eyeshadow Palettes - in Ludwig, Beethoven and Metal Orchestra are packed with tons of colors that will embrace any mood from pin-up perfection or rocker chic! Embrace your inner bad girl and boost your confidence 100%! Use various sizes of eye shadow brushes for application.

Eve Pearl – Black Pearl Smudgeproof Liquid Eyeliner – this is a very black color that applies easily, dries quickly, but allows you plenty of time to smoke it out! It will let you forget about checking on your makeup every 20 minutes and keep your sights on what is really important…catching the eye of that lead singer! Warning: your new rocker boyfriend may steal this from your makeup bag!

Dior - DiorShow Mascara - just like our rock n roll legends, this mascara is truly iconic! With a cult following as big as the Rocky Horror Picture Show, you will be doing the “Time Warp” again and again while your ultra-glam, runway-length lashes flirt throughout the night! Curl lashes prior to application if necessary.

Orlane Paris – Bronzing Pressed Powder – every rock n roll beauty loves to indulge in luxury and they also sport killer cheekbones! To achieve both those goals, reach for this silky powder that will instantly sculpt your face and brighten your skin all year around! Apply with fan brush for sculpting or large powder brush for overall dusting.

Nars – Blush – add a sheer wash of highlight and color onto the cheeks using shades like Orgasm, Deep Throat or Luster. These colors will add a super sexy flush to your cheeks that will give off the effect of basking in the afterglow of a backstage “quickie!” Apply with fan brush for light application or traditional blush brush for more color.

Dior - Crème de Gloss - is the ultimate creamy lipstick in a gloss! Deeply moisturizing, this gloss is lush, sensuous and gives rich color with a sexy shine. A true rock goddess would love shades like Red Venetian Satin 851, Sweet Praline 341 or Beige Elixir 611.

Now that you have collected your cosmetic arsenal, here are the how-to’s:

Fresh-Face - “Penny Lane is in my ears and in my eyes. There beneath the blue suburban skies.” Remember Kate Hudson’s Penny Lane muse from the movie Almost Famous? Her character’s makeup was created by artist Lois Burwell, who wanted to keep Kate angelic, but play up her eyes and smile.

Like a “blue jean baby, L.A. lady, seamstress for the band, pretty eyed, pirate smile, you’ll marry a music man…” This Pro would recreate Kate’s character by:

1. Start out with applying the DiorSkin AirFlash to create flawless skin.

2. Setting with Eve Pearl’s Pressed Powder.

3. Fill in brows with Kevyn Aucoin pencil.

4. Lightly apply Orlane’s Bronzer along the cheekbone, jaw line and add a very light sweep of Nars blush in Luster to the apples of the cheeks.

5. Using the Kat Von D Palette in Ludwig, keep the eye shadow natural by using Tequila on lid, Downtown to define crease and Clay to highlight brow bone. Use Downtown to line lower lash line.

6. Line very close to the upper lash line with Eve Pearl’s Black Pearl liner applied lightly. Blend softly into lash line.

7. Two coats of DiorShow Mascara to top lashes only.

8. Light application of Dior Crème de Gloss in Sweet Praline 341.

Voila! A tiny dancer is in my hand…

Retro 80’s – “I love rock n roll, so put another dime in the jukebox baby, I love rock n roll so come and take your time and dance with me!” Joan Jett is an American rock guitarist, singer, songwriter, producer and actress. Gorgeous and hard-edged, she is a rock n roll legend.

“A girl can do what she wants to do and that’s what I’m gonna do!” To recreate Joan’s Bad Reputation image circa 1982 start with:

1. Follow Steps 1, 2 and 3 from above.

2. Apply Orlane Bronzer starting near the ear area and sweep downward under cheekbone, stopping two-finger widths from the nose. You can be slightly heavy handed with the bronzer. Sweep Nars Deep Throat from the temples downward along cheek and blend in with bronzer. Leave apples of cheeks nude.

3. Using Kat Von D Palette in Beethoven, create a deep, rich blend of shadows by using Sinner on lid, Rad Purple in crease and Galeano on brow bone. Use Rad Purple to line lower lash line. Blend.

4. Apply Eve Pearl’s Black Pearl liner starting in the middle of the upper lash line and create a thin line that gets thicker toward the outer corner of the eye. Keep the line very thin toward the inner corner. Create a cat-eye effect by sweeping liner up slightly at outer corner. Blend.

5. Three coats of DiorShow Mascara and apply one coat to bottom lashes.

6. Dior Crème de Gloss in Red Venetian Satin 851 and apply a neutral color lip pencil like Julie Hewett’s Omit before using the gloss to prevent bleeding.

You might as well face it, your addicted to love and the 80’s!

Modern Glam - Kate Moss is the ultimate supermodel and she has been engaged to some very famous musicians and actors; Johnny Depp and Pete Doherty! She has also been the face of Calvin Klein, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Louis Vuitton, YSL, Chanel, Dior and Rimmel. She has graced the covers of Vogue, Vanity Fair and W and as notorious as her high-profile relationships, is her party lifestyle!

To recreate Kate’s bad-girl, skinny jean, thigh-high boot wearing look begin with:

1. Follow Steps 1, 2 and 3 from above.

2. Lightly apply Orlane Bronzer starting near the ear area and sweeping downward under the cheekbone, stopping two-finger widths from the nose. Dust Nars Orgasm lightly on the apples of the cheeks. Blend.

3. Using Kat Von D Palette in Metal Orchestra, blend Dagger onto the lid area, add Glock and Thrasher on top of Dagger and blend. Take Lucifer and Razor Gray and blend into the crease and outer corner. Apply First Class to brow bone and blend. Use Lucifer along lower lash line and smudge.

4. Apply Eve Pearl’s Black Pearl in a thick line along upper lash line and smudge.

5. Three coats of DiorShow Mascara and one coat to bottom lashes.

6. Dior Crème de Gloss in Beige Elixir 611, the ultimate nude lip color!

As RuPaul would say…"you better work (cover girl) work it girl (give a twirl) do your thing on the “runway!”

No matter which type of rock chick you choose to be: remember to be creative with your makeup, which will bring an air of instant mystery and edgy-glam to your world!

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

Change up the mood by breaking away from the normal charcoal hues of the traditional smoky eye and go for something a little more colorful like purples, greens, blues or earth tones, but the colors must be deep. Bright eye shadow tends to give off a very neon vibe, which is more in line with your punk rock days, then the bang-your-head persona!

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO: Keeping it clean! We've discovered how to keep your powdered products fresh and clean even if you use them every day! Don't miss our next post featuring information on how to prolong the life of your cosmetic investments!