Chill Out!

"Lights...Camera...Action!"  When the director shouts those three words an actor or actress has to instantly turn that “it” factor volume way up, which can make even the most seasoned professional nervous.  Production lighting + nerves can = melted makeup, unless the MUA is a consummate Pro and knows how to prevent the sweat!

Red Carpet events, rock stars on tour, models in the dessert, 20 retakes, award speeches and steamy love scenes are enough to cause anyone to perspire and it is this Pro’s job to make my clients look as if they are as calm as cucumbers by ensuring that their makeup won't budge, smudge or smear!  It’s not easy and it makes me sweat like a wh@#e in church (but who cares what I look like)!

Now, let’s think about some “real life” scenarios that can make the everyday woman (or man) freak out instead of chill out!  Getting married, graduation, job interview, first date, being a bridesmaid, pitching a new client, first kiss, asking for a raise, making a speech or any type of event where you may be the main attraction!  Right?  Can you feel it:  The perspiration forming in your armpits, the beading on your upper lip, the sweat dripping down the sides of your face?  More than embarrassing I know!

Since you don’t have the luxury of having a professional makeup artist in your face every 5 minutes collecting your DNA on a orange puff loaded with powder or mopping up your body fluids with tissue and retouching your cosmetic like those fortunate celebrities do, how can you make certain that your “big” day won’t be a major makeup meltdown recorded forever in photographs?

Relax!  IMPO is here to save the day!  Lucky for you this Pro is more than willing to let you take a peek inside my kit of magic tricks and share my secret arsenal of stay put product!  Not only do I use these cosmetics on some very famous faces, they are my go-to products when I know the pressure is “on” and that I would more likely be hit by a bus then be able to touch-up my own face!

FOUNDATION:

Make Up Forever Mat Velvet + Matifying Foundation – this is a shine controlling, oil-free, water-resistant, complete coverage liquid foundation.  This product will hide imperfections and even out skin tone.  It mattifies the skin’s appearance and leaves a non-oily, powdered finish.  Apply with foundation brush or sponge. I do layer this product with a concealer if necessary.

Laura Mercier Stick Foundation SPF 15 – this is an oil-free, water-resistant stick foundation that is moisturizing and hydrating, which means that it won’t settle into the fine lines and wrinkles.  It is creamy in texture and will glide onto the skin providing excellent coverage.  Apply with fingertips or sponge.

Graftobian Hi-Def Glamour Crème Foundation – if you want to take a stroll down the Pro MUA walk–of-fame give this product a try.  It was developed for Graftobian by Brad Look who is a major “player” in the world of Hollywood.  Made for extensive use on-set under the professional lights of a sound stage or location shoot, you can visit the Graftobian website and discover your equivalent color match to the foundation product you are currently using and with over 50 shades to choose from, finding your exact skin tone counterpart is easy.

CONCEALER:

Amazing Cosmetics Amazing Concealer – this is a full-coverage concealer ideal for any type of skin imperfection.  It is highly pigmented and super-emollient, which means you can kiss those dark circles goodbye and it will blend into the skin easily.  Waterproof formula insures that it will stay put throughout activity.  Apply with concealer brush, sponge or fingertip.

SETTING POWDER:

Cinema Secrets Translucent Powder – perfect for setting all liquid or cream cosmetic in preparation for powder product application.  Apply using large powder brush, sponge, or puff.  Gently buff into skin.

BRONZER:

Dior Bronze Matte Sunshine SPF 20 – this bronzer is what this Pro uses personally and professionally.  Provides a beautiful, even faux-tan look that is matte, shine-free and is a water-resistant formula perfect for contouring the face.

MULTI-USE:

Becca Beach Tint – this is a gorgeous blendable crème stain for cheeks and lips that is appropriate for all skin types.  Kiss-proof and water-resistant, it dries without leaving streaks.  I layer this under powder blush, bronzer and lip glosses for added staying power and to increase color intensity.

BROW PENCILS:

Tricia Sawyer Beauty’s Brow Define Pencil – incredible color with a smudge-proof formula.  Skinny tip allows you to fill in your brows creating the illusion of hair.  Easy to blend and is available with refillable leads.

CRÈME EYE SHADOW:

Shu Uemura – this is the shadow that this Pro uses when I am shooting for 14 hours a day!  Soft, blendable and waterproof with an intense color payoff.  Matte and pearl texture allow for total artistic control.  Easy to layer under powder eye shadow to give it more staying power.  Never creases, smears or fades.

EYE LINER:

Pencil – Make Up Forever Aqua Eyes is a two-in-one eyeshadow and liner pencil  Waterproof formula adheres to the eyelids and resists water even under the most extreme conditions.  Holds color without fading.

Gel – Bobbi Brown Long Wearing Gel Eyeliner – this eyeliner offers the precision of a liquid liner, but it is easier to apply and blend.  Very saturated, smudge proof and comes in a variety of matte or shimmer colors to match any occasion.

Cream – Make Up Forever Aqua Creamliner – totally waterproof cream formula that gives an intense, precise finish.  Extremely long-lasting and comes in a multitude of matte colors.

MASCARA:

Dior DiorShow Iconic Extreme Waterproof Mascara – if you need showgirl style lashes for your important day but don’t want to wear false lashes, then this is the mascara for you!   This Pro loves this mascara in both the original and waterproof formulas.

Imju Fiberwig – the other Pro loves Imju because the brush is thin and allows for complete saturation of the upper and lower lash line with ease in application.  Dries instantly.

LIPS:

Lorac Co-Stars – this is an eight-hour, long wearing lip color and glossy top coat.  Created by Carol Shaw, top Hollywood Makeup Artist, you can create gorgeous, glam lips without worrying about your color lasting throughout the day.  Smudge-proof, non-drying and provides full-coverage.

SETTING SPRAY:

Skindinavia Makeup Finishing Spray - this is my secret weapon!  Apply over makeup to set, hold and extend cosmetic wear.  Heat and humidity resistant, it cuts my touch-ups in half! Prevents makeup from melting, sliding and fading. Dries instantly.  

So, if you want your makeup to last longer than most Hollywood marriages, pick up a few of the products listed above and you can rest assure that you will look amazing throughout all of life’s big moments!

PRO TIPS & TRICKS:

Skindinavia has several types of finishing sprays for every aspect of a girl's life!  Try 10 Years Younger, Dance, No More Shine, Cool Flash, Bridal and Jet Set.  I gave my mom the Cool Flash Finishing Spray when she was suffering from hot flashes and this product helped her immensely!  It is also great for those with very active lifestyles or live in warm climates.  Take it with you on vacation or to the gym when you workout!  The cooling technology "chills" the makeup surface, like turning on your body's personal air conditioner!  Skindinavia is this Pro's secret for summer-proofing makeup!

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO: Beach Babe!  Are you a die-hard makeup girl that can't bare to not wear cosmetics even to the beach?  Then you won't want to miss the next post from IMPO featuring appropriate makeup for your inner mermaid!

Smoke Signals!

Smoldering, sexy, alluring, sophisticated, classic, that is this Pro's definition of a Smoky Eye! In the world of professional makeup artistry, the request for a smoky eye is made daily by my clients no matter if it is day or night. Probably the most popular eye makeup look of all time both on the runway and in real life, the smoky eye has past the “trend” label and become a “staple” look for most women.

You don’t need to attend a red carpet event or concert to rock this look, but what you will need is a little…attitude, which seems to come naturally when you wear a smoky eye. Your demeanor will change and don’t be surprised if you turn heads more than usual! Whether you are in the boardroom or ballroom, this look commands attention and will get you noticed (in a good way if you follow instructions).



There is a “standard” smoky eye look and there are “unconventional” smoky eye looks and this Pro is a lover of them all. Society tends to think that you have to be a rock star, actress or diva to wear this look and that the everyday women could not or should not try to pull it off! This Pro says, step outside of your comfort zone and give “them” something to talk about!

Done right, this look will make your eyes “pop” and speak to the world louder than your words ever could! The smoky eye is like the “bad boy” for women and I often wonder who created this movement. Maybe it all started with “ladies of the night” or witches or vampires. No matter, whoever created it should win an Oscar for their achievement in makeup artistry!



This look can be tricky, messy, frustrating and can make you appear older if you don’t follow the “rules!” Traditionally, the look is created using heavy black, charcoal, silver and purple colors, but cosmetic lines have branched out creating deep tones of blues, browns and greens to bring the consumer a variety and help to make this look acceptable for daytime wear.

This post is going to take you through the steps to create a smoky eye for both day and night, but first you need to gather your tools:

* Eye Shadow Primer
* Tweezers
* Eye Shadow
(4 colors) light, medium, dark and a base color (neutral vanilla shade).
* Eye Liner
(cream, gel, pencil – your choice – in black or coordinating color)
* Brushes
(2 flat eye shadow brushes & 1 each of a fluffy blender, sponged smudger, stiff crease, large powder brush)
* Translucent Powder
* Cosmetic Wipes
* Black Mascara



Here is the how-to for day:

1. Begin with the skin prep (moisturizer, primer, eye cream). Now, apply your eye shadow primer and blend. Give the skin 10 minutes to absorb product and “blot” with Kleenex to remove excess. Analyze your eyebrows and use tweezers to clean up issues. A polished eyebrow is essential for this look!

2. Do not apply foundation or concealer yet – we are doing the eyes first. Take translucent powder and heavily dust the under eye area with product – you want to see the powder under the eye – do not blend in. This technique will “capture” any fall out eye shadow and you will be able to whisk it away after application is complete.

3. You can either apply the liner (of your choice) now to top lashes only and use smudger brush or wait to apply after eye shadow. Remember, you are wearing this look during the day so your color choices should be in the brown or earth tone hues. Save the black, blue, green or purple for nighttime! Another option is tight lining the eye.

4. Using one of the flat eye shadow brushes, apply eye shadow base color all over lid to brow bone (this is the neutral vanilla color and it acts as a base which gives the shadow good “grab” and color intensity). Take a clean flat eye shadow brush and apply the medium tone shadow from lash line blending upward into the crease (depositing most of the color on lid and lash line) – do not take this into a cat eye effect.

5. Using crease brush load deep color and apply to outer corner of eye creating a “V” shape and blend. Take clean blender brush and blend, blend, blend all color together minimizing hard demarcation edges. Return to the flat eye shadow brush used to apply base color and load lightest eye shadow color applying to brow bone and blend again!

6. Taking medium and dark eye shadow hues move to lower lash line, dip crease brush into both shades and apply. Line the eye from outer to inner corner and smudge. Contrary to popular belief, it is okay to line the inside lower water line for a day look with coordinating eyeliner color – I give you permission, but it will be more dramatic!

7. Analyze eye application and add color if necessary. Fill in brows if needed and apply two coats of black mascara to your upper lashes and one coat to your bottom lashes for definition.

8. Use powder brush to gently whisk away translucent powder, take cosmetic wipes and clean up the under eye area. Now is the time to apply foundation, concealer and complete your look. Be careful not to remove liner or shadow when using wipes, eye cream or other cosmetics.



Pro Tip: It doesn’t matter if you are wearing the smoky eye look for day or night the same rule applies with blush and lipstick/gloss. Use a light dusting of bronzer and highlighter for cheeks and a nude or natural tone lipstick/gloss. Do not apply heavy or very pigmented blush and lip colors because that will “age” and “date” this look and take you immediately back to the future ala Joan Collins on the set of Dynasty and you will arrive there via Marty McFly’s DeLorean time machine! Get it? Good!



Here is the how-to for night:

Follow steps 1 and 2

3. Decide if you are creating a “traditional” smoky look using black, charcoals, etc., or a “colored” smoky eye using purples, greens, blues or metallics. Grab 3 shades (light, medium, dark) and the neutral base color. Apply in same manner as directed above, but you can be slightly more heavy handed and create that cat-eye effect if you wish. Build on the color and play with the look. The messy, slept-in smoky eye is hot right now!

4. Use coordinating liner in a deep hue or black and smudge into upper and lower lash line and in the bottom water line.

5. Analyze look and add color if necessary.

6. Apply three coats of black mascara on top lashes and 1 coat on bottom lashes for definition. This is also the time to use a false lash if you choose.

7. Whisk away translucent powder and clean up eye area same as above.

8. Apply the rest of your makeup and follow Pro tip rule pertaining to cheeks and lips.



Here is a list of this Pro’s must have smoky eye products that are rich in pigment with exceptional blendability:

Chanel Quadra Eye Shadow



Tricia Sawyer Beauty Smoke and Mirrors



Make Up For Ever



Nars



Urban Decay



All product listed above can be purchased at your local Department Store or Sephora.

PRO TIPS & TRICKS:
This Pro just read a very valuable tip from InStyle Magazine and Pro Makeup Artist, Linda Cantello. She says, “the biggest mistake people make with a smoky eye is using a lighter shade of shadow to blend in the darker color – it takes away from the richness of the look!” So basically that means, if you feel that you applied too much color, clean off your blender brush and blend the color in more. That way, your pigmentation will stay true and not change because you added your lighter color on top of or over your darker color.



So ladies, if you think you are too old to smoke out those peepers here is a shot of what 42 years old looks like with a smoky eye!! Grab yourself a "venti" sized helping of self esteem and rock this look like I do and because this Pro is all about changing the conventional image, I will even go one step further and show you how incredible this look can be on a much older woman! Take a gander at the gorgeous Carmen Dell'Orefice, she is working that smoky eye at almost 78 years old!!






STAY TUNED:
Up next on IMPO: Tween to Teen - this Pro has been blessed with two amazing daughters and you can imagine how much they love makeup because of my chosen profession. IMPO's next post will focus on everything you need to know about skin care and makeup for the younger generation!




*face chart courtesy - Wendy Whitelaw, Pro Makeup Artist and some photos courtsey of Haper's Bazaar